[mdlug] [Fwd: Re: bios battery]

[Raymond McLaughlin]

Thanks for the input Mike,

Michael Rudas (computer) wrote:
<SNIP>
> The actual replacement process takes a bit of finesse.  A mobo has 4 or 
> 6 layers of traces-- one of them is a ground plane, which acts as a heat 
> sink.  The trick, then, is to use a hot iron (30 watts minimum) and get 
> on-and-off the joint quickly, yet ensure that there are no torn traces 
> or cold solder joints (45 years experience helps here-- heh).  If you 
> don't have a solder-sucker or solder wick, a toothpick can be used to 
> clear the holes.
> 
> It's important to practice, practice, practice!  Find an old mobo 
> somewhere and practice soldering on it until you feel comfortable (or at 
> least competent) doing so.  Use a 60/40 (60% tin/40% lead) or, better 
> still, 63/37 eutectic alloy solder to reduce problems with cold solder 
> joints.
> 
> -- Mikey


I'm tempted to try a technique here that works well for crude components
in tight quarters: After removing the bad caps and removing the excess
solder from the wholes, solder in a short length of stranded wire, well
tinned. Trim below the board almost flush, and above the board to about
3mm, then once all the wholes are prepared this way, soften the tinned
ends enough to join the capacitors, heat just long enough to make clean
joint. In tight quarters this can be easier than trying to hold your
component in place while soldering the other side of the board. I kind
of expect your comment to be "don't", but I thought I'd run it by you.

Raymond McLaughlin